Article published in the newspaper La Presse, Le Soir and La Croix in August-September 2010
late August, Russia announced it had deployed in Abkhazia missiles pointed at the very pro-Western Georgia. Abkhazia? Officially, this is a region of Georgia. However, this area claims to be an independent nation. Moscow has recognized two years ago almost to the day.
is a normal summer day at the border between Russia and Abkhazia Psaou. Russian side of the Abkhazian border traders rusty old push their carts filled with melons five wickets to passport control. A few dozen Russian tourists in flip-flops are dragging their suitcases with wheels and seek to exceed the merchants. The tone rises. "We go to the sea, we! "Says a Russian, irritated by the long wait in the unbearable heat that suffocates the entire region for weeks. Abkhaz side, however the duty is a matter of seconds. All those who come from Russia are welcome!
The meandering 100 km border separating the capital, Sukhumi, roll on a new road now, courtesy of Russia, now on asphalt fragmented from before the fall of the USSR. At the time, Abkhazia and its 213 km of seafront on the Black Sea was the Soviet tourist paradise. Today, 99% of the approximately 800,000 tourists it receives each year are Russian.
Sukhumi. Or Sukhumi, Georgian, since except for Russia, Venezuela, Nicaragua and the microscopic island of Nauru, the Abkhazia region of Georgia remains legally.
Two years ago too, the capital of some 50 000 people had only one traffic light. Today, they number a few dozen brand new. Several buildings still bear the scars the bloody war of secession against Georgia in 1992-1993, which left 13 000 dead. But new buildings are gradually starting to sprout.
"Thank you Russia!"
Avenue de la Paix, elderly people waiting outside a bank the security guard's signal to go collect the 500 rubles ($ 17) pension paid to them Abkhazia. "Thank you Russia!" Without her we would only have that! " Launches Lyudmila, 68, a retired physician who continues to teach at the university and hospital care. Later, she will go to another bank harvest the 2900 rubles offered by the Russian state. is that, as more than 90% of Abkhazians, Lyudmila was easily obtained Russian citizenship in the early 2000s. If Russia does not consider at the time the Georgian separatist regions as countries, it was already made in their respirator. Recognizing Abkhazia and South Ossetia, August 26, 2008, Russian President Dmitry Medvedev has simply formalized the relationship.
Less than 24 hours after our interview request, Abkhaz President Sergei Bagapsh, receives us in his presidential office. Abkhazia, in recognition of evil, is in seduction.
"We do not intend to beg anyone to recognize us," said the president, however, in office since 2004. "The most important thing is to build a rule of law, democracy, respect for the international community understands that we want peace and stability, not war, and therefore that we must recognize."
The fact that the International Court of Justice has confirmed, on July 22 last, the legality of Kosovo's independence, recognized by 69 states, do not change anything for his "country", said Sergei Bagapsh. "But this demonstrates again that the decision Russia's recognition of Abkhazia was absolutely right. "
Protected in war
For President, safeguarding independence pass through economic development, mainly from tourism and agriculture, Abkhazia is a major producer of citrus. But, ironically, it all depends on Russian money.
This year, with Russia will almost double the Abkhaz meager budget of about 135 million dollars. Including services to Russian citizens in Abkhazia, triple it. Another paradox, the Russian military presence in Abkhazia ensures independence of the republic, Sergei Bagapsh believes. It deters the President of Georgia Mikheil Saakashvili, seeking to regain by force the separatist territories, as in the blitzkrieg of August 2008 in South Ossetia.
And here lies the main achievement of this conflict, says the president of Abkhazia. After years of uncertainty, "people feel now that peace has come, they themselves can decide their fate." The pensioner Lyudmila
confirms: "We know that if a war with Georgia, the Russians will be there to defend ourselves."
Georgians left behind
In south-east of Abkhazia, populated mostly by Georgians, we see the situation from a different perspective.
The road to get to Gali is also dilapidated and depressing than the city itself. During the 1992-1993 war, the majority of residents have fled to Georgia for fear of reprisals by Abkhaz separatists.
Since then, nothing has been rebuilt, and the town is now too large for its population of several thousand people, or that of a big village.
Here, most people have secretly Georgian citizenship in addition to the Abkhaz. Some also have a Russian passport, to be entitled to services. Education in Georgia is prohibited, many parents send their children to school across the "border".
In a cafe, Russian soldiers control a bottle of vodka. In their view, men grumbled to whisper in Georgia.
At the entrance stands a giant portrait Gali President Bagapsh, as if to mock men recycled taxi drivers waiting at his feet for unlikely customers. Languages take time to untie. "In 20 years they have not even managed to redo the road!" finally complains Guram, pot-bellied fifties, after a long apology ironic Abkhazia independent.
"Before, the town was bustling, people strolling, remembers there. Now, life is bad. In Georgia, for cons, everything is beautiful! Especially the roads!"
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